“Advice to the Graduate” – East Rock Coffee (New Haven)

Blueberry Scone

At some point, by its very nature, the inevitable arrives. The urge for a scone to review overcomes sentimental protectionism and one turns homeward. I amble into East Rock Coffee, a micro-café not established for its pastries but one that nonetheless offers ample selection. The scones here are consistent, large, and fairly unimaginative. One should not take consistency for granted.

I order a blueberry scone.

I slide the scone onto a plate as sugar cubes come raining down around it. The scone is large but not gargantuan. It’s nearly a perfect right triangle that recalls the shape of a stealth bomber. Pale spots of flour suggest that it could prove exceedingly dry. Visible blueberry mounds counter with the potential for moisture-filled bursts. Deep-tears scar its face reminiscent of canyons ripped into the earth. The paleness may portend dryness but can equally promise crunch.

I begin with a corner. There is exquisite crunch and a soft inside that makes for a wonderful bite. The crust itself is consistently crunchy and light. The inside, while soft, is somewhat dry and doughy. To its credit, the inside is not overly sweet, perhaps to a fault. Nevertheless, each corner is approaching perfection.

The blueberries are relatively moist and a delight when encountered, but this proves to be a disappointingly rare occurrence. The sugar cubes on top are a neutral addition. Hardly subtle in taste, they may have proven overwhelming had they not fallen from their pastry perch.

Once the corners are gone, the lumpy mass that remains proves difficult to scarf down. I suspect this would be true even if I wasn’t nursing a sore throat due to the wonderful agonies of winter colds. Given my impaired state, completion develops into a disappointing chore.

In many facets, this scone succeeds at what I care about most. It offers satisfying size, sweetness, and crunch. Even the dryness, its true fault, could likely be solved through greater blueberry density. So, rather than despair in its failings, I decide to embrace what this satisfying if imperfect creation does well. I would certainly devour another with tempered joy.

7/10

– DANG